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Red-eye is caused when light rays coming from camera flash reflect off from a subject’s retina. The reflection takes the color of surrounding blood vessels making the reflection red in color. In animals the reflected color may not be red always; it could be green, white, or yellow depending upon the color of membrane located behind their retina. Since the color of membrane overpowers the color of the blood vessels around animals’ retina, the reflections color is not red always. Remember those ghetto wolves in horror movies or your pets in dark with white light reflecting from their eyes? That is not a special effect but red-eye.
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Just like many of you I am also a believer of “Prevention is better that cure”. If you can prevent your camera’s sensor from getting dusty, you will never have to look for a cure. Here are a couple of important steps you can
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F-Stop Definition
F-Stop is a unit to express how much light is entering a camera lens. Example f/2, f/4, f/8, etc.
Explanation
Assuming this post is for beginners I am briefing out the dependent terminologies: Aperture: Just like our eyes, camera lens has an opening that allows light to enter into the camera. This opening is termed as aperture. Focal Length: Distance between the image sensor and optical center of camera lens. When you buy a lens for your camera, it will have a number on it, something like 18mm, 55mm, 105mm, etc. These numbers are called as focal length.
Letter “F” in F-Stop is called as focal length. Focal length divided by aperture determines the F-Stop.
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In my last post “Choosing a DSLR (Part-I)” I explained one of the 5 steps that I would recommend to choose a DSLR. In this post I’ll emphasize on the remaining steps.
2. Getting familiar with the important features.
In the previous step I only stated the feature that you will be looking in your new DSLR. Let me brief out the features along with some common specifications.
1.1. Image Stability- One of the most important features you will like to have in your DSLR. This feature is required in almost all the available scenarios and comes in two ways these days; one integrated with in the camera body and other in the lenses. When activated minor tremble to the camera will be eliminated resulting in sharper, crispier images even in the darker conditions. Some manufacturers term it as “Vibration Reduction” and some call it “Image Stabilization” but both means the same.
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What DSLR should I buy? Is there an effective way to choose between different available DSLRs? Which one is the best DSLR in market these days? these are very common questions that I often get from my friends and readers, I thought why not scripting it for all my dear ones- It’s a good idea I guess 
If you are in one of your initial phases of research and you still have doubts whether or not to upgrade your gears to DSLR then I would like to recommend you to read my post “Is it worth upgrading to DSLR?” Believe me you will not lose anything by reading it.
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In my previous post “Is it worth upgrading to DSLR? (Part-I)” I wrote about understanding the characteristics, anatomy, Pros and Cons of point-n-shoot camera. In this concluding part I would like to brief out characteristics, anatomy, Pros and Cons of a DSLR. This will help you make a decision to whether or not to upgrade your gear to DSLR.
DSLR Characteristics
DSLR stands for Digital Single Lens Reflex. These cameras can be mounted with a variety of lenses like fish eye, wide angle, telephoto, etc. Such a variety of interchangeable lenses provides you with a greater creative control over ability to select lenses based on virtually any photographic situation.
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With the advancement of technology and slashing prices of DSLRs these days many of you guys ask or at least have this question before upgrading from Point-n-Shoot camera to a DSLR. I get a lot of such queries from my friends and relatives, in fact I had this same question when I upgraded my gears to DSLR.
In this post I’ll try to cover all the aspects of ones needs to upgrade from Point-n-Shoot Camera to DSLR. I’ll compare the two and leave upon you to make the final decision. I’ll also provide links to various websites where you can gather more resources for your research.....
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In Understanding Shooting Modes (Part-I, II and III) I explained some of the auto and advanced modes. I’ll explain other available modes like Portrait, Landscape, Sports, Macro, and Night in this part.
Other Modes
In today’s cameras many other modes exist which I will be briefing out below. Availability and indication of these modes depends upon brand to brand....
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In Understanding Shooting Modes (Part-I and Part-II) I explained Auto, Programmed and Aperture Priority Mode, I’ll explain and illustrate one of the other advanced modes called Shutter Priority Mode in this part.
Shutter Priority Mode
This mode lets you choose the shutter speed and the camera chooses the appropriate aperture (lens opening) for proper exposure.
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In continuation to Understanding Shooting Modes (Part-I) where I described the Auto and Programmed Modes, I’ll explain and illustrate one of the advanced modes called Aperture Priority Mode in this part.
Aperture Priority Mode
This mode lets you choose the aperture (lens opening) and the camera chooses the appropriate shutter speed for proper exposure.
Just like human’s eyes, lens of a camera has an opening called iris that opens and closes according to automatic or manual settings. This in optical terms also referred as “Aperture”. Changing the aperture settings changes the size of the opening which controls the amount of light the lens passes through to the image sensor.
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Today’s advance digital cameras basically perform automatically many of the tasks necessary for capturing a photo. The Auto mode or the Programmed mode is always a good option for beginners to shoot any scene. However, these modes don’t always produce up to the mark results. If you really want to utilize the power of your DSLR, you must learn and practice all the available modes.
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